Patek Philippe Expands Its High Complications Collection with New Case and Dial Styles
In preparation for the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe is refreshing its collections after discontinuing several models in 2023.
With one of its largest collections released in 2023, Patek Philippe is focusing on perfecting its watch collections at Watches & Wonders 2024. By introducing new styles for existing models and adding new pieces to the regular collections, Patek Philippe aims to offer a watch for every watch collector today.
The highlight is the Ref. 5330G-001 World Time with Date, which was first presented at the Art of Watches exhibition in Tokyo last June. This special model shows how Patek Philippe continues to innovate the World Time complication, which was first developed with Louis Cottier nearly 90 years ago. The Ref. 5330G-001 features a patented date display that syncs with local time without any corrections.
While this may seem simple, one tricky aspect is how to adjust the date when crossing the International Date Line from west to east. This requires a date reversal, which is achieved via the central differential that manages the date switching. The date hand itself is also quite unique, using a glass rod with a red lacquered hammer tip that moves along a scale on the inner ring. This maximizes the readability of the world time and date functions.
The opaline dial features a carbon pattern in the center, while the city ring and night zone of the 24-hour ring are in a cool blue-grey color. The city ring is printed with the point between Auckland and Midway Island, marking the International Date Line. This 40mm white gold watch is equipped with the self-winding Caliber 240 HU C, which provides up to 48 hours of power and is ultra-thin at just 11.57mm thick. For the globetrotter, it is the perfect travel companion.
Another great travel companion is, of course, the Ref. 5520RG-001 Alarm Travel Time. First introduced in platinum in 2019, the Ref. 5520 now has a new rose gold version with a subtle two-tone finish. White gold is incorporated into the design of this watch, used for the dial as well as the tubes of the watch's four control buttons.
One of the most capable and practical travel timepieces you can find, this watch features an additional skeletonized hour hand on the main dial that displays the dual time zone, a date display that shows the local time, and a day/night indicator for both time zones. But the most impressive aspect of this watch is its chiming alarm, which features a fast-strike gong and a single hammer that activates at a preset time. Even more impressive is the clarity and quality of the alarm, which starts slightly before the set time so the wearer can enjoy the sound of the alarm.
This 42.2 mm watch is available in rose gold and white gold with a gray sunburst dial. The white gold hour markers and hands are coated with luminous material to ensure clear visibility at night. The field watch design of the Ref. 5520RG-001 complements the color scheme of the watch and is paired with a brown calfskin strap, which combines casual and formal styles.
Exquisite Calendar Patek Philippe perpetual calendars are highly sought after by collectors. Patek Philippe presents this complication in different ways, and this year launched three new models with classic, modern and contemporary styles.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R-001 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar watch uses rare craftsmanship and showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in traditional hand-engraving crafts. This watch features a rose gold case with a silvery opaline dial, and the dial, bezel, case middle, crown, hinged cover, folding clasp, screws and lugs are all decorated with exquisite scrollwork and leaf patterns. The design of this engraving is based on a pocket watch in the Patek Philippe Museum.
On the dial, two holes on the left and right sides indicate the day of the week and the month respectively. In between is the retrograde date, indicated by a red hand, and at 6 o'clock is a deep blue moon phase display with rose gold accents. The Breguet numerals are in blackened white gold, and there is a leap year window on the dial above the Manufacture logo.
Opening the hinged Officer case reveals the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S QR movement, which has a power reserve of up to 45 hours, ensuring that the calendar remains accurate even when not being worn. The grandeur of the Ref. 5160/500R-001 is not to be underestimated; it is breathtaking, to say the least.
The same complications are presented in an elegant and functional style. This watch features a patented linear perpetual calendar that displays the day, date and month in a single aperture at 12 o'clock, providing generous negative space to make the design more dynamic. The small seconds counter and moon phase display are located at 6 o'clock, flanked by apertures for day/night and leap year.
The dial is displayed in opaline rose gold with a matte finish, giving it a very modern, timeless design, paired with blackened white gold applied baton hour markers and hands. As with the platinum case, Patek Philippe has set a brilliant-cut diamond on the bottom of the case. The watch features an interchangeable solid sapphire crystal caseback, which offers a view of the self-winding Caliber 31-260 PS QL with a platinum rotor.
Finally, for those who prefer a modern dress watch, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5396 Annual Calendar with Moon Phases is now available in a white gold case with a sunburst blue dial that fades to black at the edges. The annual calendar complication was originally developed by the Geneva Manufacture as a practical alternative to the perpetual calendar, requiring only one adjustment per year, in February.
The calendar indicators are all displayed in small windows, with the day and month below the manufacturer’s logo and the date at 6 o’clock. Small counters display the day/night time in analog format, as well as the moon phase. Finally, 12 baguette-cut diamonds indicate the hours, giving this watch an added touch of glamour. The Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H can be seen through the back of the watch, with its full-sized rotor maintaining the mainspring’s 45-hour power reserve.
Of course, these aren’t the only models released this year. There are also new Aquanauts and a new Nautilus, as well as a beautifully designed Golden Ellipse model.